James Beard Award finalist Greg Collier has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle, transforming the hotel lobby restaurant into a showcase for his Southern cuisine. Tucked inside the Canopy by Hilton Charlotte SouthPark, the spot drew an empty dining room on a recent Friday night despite Collier's arrival in October. His new menu previews signal a return to the bold flavors that earned him national acclaim, even as his previous ventures faced closures amid economic pressures.
Navigating Closures and a Pivot to Stability
Collier's path to Fine & Fettle follows the shuttering of two Charlotte favorites. His wife Subrina's Leah & Louise at Camp North End closed in 2024, with plans for relocation stalled. Then came 3rd & Fernwood in Midtown, an "everyone" restaurant that succumbed to financial troubles and staff shortages. Collier explained to CharlotteFive that the couple recognized economic headwinds early, prompting a strategic shift. He sought a hotel partnership for its organizational backing, allowing focus on food, service, and drinks without solo financial strain. This move reflects broader challenges in the restaurant industry, where independents grapple with rising costs and labor gaps, often finding refuge in established hospitality structures.
Dishes That Echo Past Triumphs
Collier's Instagram previews since late November hinted at refined Southern roots, and the plates deliver. Grilled cauliflower arrives topped with everything-bagel-style seasoning and coffee molasses, blending sweet crunch, tang, and depth—evoking the addictive cabbage from Leah & Louise. Hoppin' John justifies its $35 price through slow-cooked field peas, red rice, and oxtail into unctuous richness, accented by pickled okra. Breakfast elevates beyond lobby norms: mushroom toast packs umami intensity, while buttermilk biscuits emerge light, sliced, and toasted. These creations prioritize local sourcing, including from Freshlist farms, underscoring Collier's commitment to regional ingredients amid supply chain strains.
Beyond Openings: The Heart of Restaurant Revival
The true measure of a restaurant lies in the narratives forged between openings and closings. Collier now invests in kitchen talent development while maintaining quality. Hotel banquets buoy business despite the lobby's drawbacks, proving location yields to execution. Fine & Fettle transcends its "fine" reputation, offering compelling reasons for Charlotte diners to fill those seats. In an era of volatile eatery fortunes, Collier's focus on craft and support systems points to sustainable paths forward for ambitious chefs.
