James Beard Award finalist Greg Collier has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle, transforming the hotel lobby restaurant in Charlotte's SouthPark into a showcase for his acclaimed Southern cooking. Despite recent closures of his own ventures amid economic pressures and staffing woes, Collier's new menu delivers the bold flavors that earned him national recognition. On a recent Friday night, the dining room sat nearly empty, a stark contrast to the quality now on offer.
Navigating Closures and a Pivot to Stability
Collier's path to Fine & Fettle follows the shuttering of two Charlotte favorites: Leah & Louise at Camp North End in 2024 and 3rd & Fernwood in Midtown. He closed Leah & Louise with his wife Subrina after spotting economic headwinds, while 3rd & Fernwood, designed as an accessible spot for all, faltered due to financial troubles and staff shortages. These setbacks highlight broader challenges in the restaurant industry, where independents grapple with rising costs, labor scarcity, and shifting consumer habits post-pandemic.
A Hotel Partnership Fuels Creative Focus
Collier sought a hotel collaboration for its backing, partnering with Fine & Fettle's general manager to run food, service, and drinks on his terms. This setup provides the organizational and financial support he craved, freeing him to prioritize kitchen talent and local sourcing from suppliers like Freshlist. Hotel locations often sustain through banquets and events, offsetting quieter dinner services—a reality Collier embraces over the volatility of standalone operations.
Dishes That Echo Collier's Signature Style
New previews on Instagram signal a return to the Southern cuisine that defined Collier's rise. Grilled cauliflower, seasoned like everything bagel topping and finished with coffee molasses, delivers crunch, tang, and depth—evoking the craveable cabbage from Leah & Louise. Hoppin' John at $35 justifies its price with field peas, red rice, slow-cooked oxtail, and pickled okra, forming a rich, comforting whole. Even breakfast shines: mushroom toast packs umami intensity, while buttermilk biscuits arrive light, sliced, and toasted.
Beyond Openings: The Essence of Restaurant Life
The true measure of a restaurant lies in the chef's stories between openings and closings. Collier emphasizes staff development and farm partnerships, ensuring sustainability amid industry flux. Fine & Fettle, once merely adequate in its Canopy by Hilton perch, now demands attention—its empty tables a missed opportunity for Charlotte diners to rediscover elevated Southern fare.
