James Beard Award finalist Greg Collier has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle, transforming the modest hotel lobby restaurant into a showcase for his signature Southern cuisine. Despite its tucked-away spot in the Canopy by Hilton Charlotte SouthPark, the venue delivered standout dishes during a recent Friday night visit, even as the dining room sat nearly empty. Collier's arrival signals a fresh chapter amid his recent restaurant challenges, raising questions about viability in Charlotte's competitive food scene.
Navigating Closures and a Pivot to Stability
Collier's path to Fine & Fettle follows closures of two prior ventures. His wife Subrina's Leah & Louise at Camp North End shut down in 2024 amid economic pressures, with plans for relocation still unrealized. Then 3rd & Fernwood in Midtown closed due to financial troubles and staff shortages. Collier described 3rd & Fernwood as an "everyone" restaurant that failed to gain traction, telling CharlotteFive he and Subrina foresaw broader economic headwinds. This hotel partnership offers what he sought: financial and organizational backing to prioritize food, service, and drinks without ownership burdens. Hotel settings provide steady banquet business, Collier noted, offsetting the lobby's drawbacks.
Dishes That Echo Collier's Southern Mastery
Since late November, Collier has previewed new menu items on Instagram, returning to the bold Southern flavors that earned his James Beard nod. Standouts include grilled cauliflower seasoned like everything bagel topping and drizzled with coffee molasses—sweet, crunchy, tangy, and deeply satisfying, akin to the famed cabbage from Leah & Louise. Hoppin' John, priced at $35, justifies its cost through slow-cooked field peas, red rice, tender oxtail, and pickled okra that adds sharp contrast. Breakfast elevates beyond typical hotel fare: mushroom toast delivers intense umami, while buttermilk biscuits arrive light, sliced, and toasted. These creations affirm Collier's skill remains sharp.
Beyond the Plate: Building for Charlotte's Future
Collier emphasizes kitchen talent development and local sourcing, currently partnering with Freshlist for ingredients. This focus addresses persistent industry pain points like staffing shortages that doomed 3rd & Fernwood. In Charlotte's evolving dining landscape, where economic strains shutter beloved spots, his model highlights adaptation—trading independence for support in less glamorous spaces. The empty Friday night tables underscore a challenge: visibility. Yet the food demands attention. Fine & Fettle now exceeds "fine," proving a chef's vision endures between openings and closings.
